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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.